Hiking vacation on Rügen

Active time out between the Bodden and the Baltic Sea

Author: Frederike Höhn
Published: March 24, 2025

Two women sit in the forest on the cliffs and look out over the Bodden at sunset.

The old wooden bridge looks as if it had sprung straight out of a landscape painting. To the right and left of the faded wooden planks, the water of the Liddow stream glistens in the sun, which on this day is moving across a blue sky with small white absorbent cotton clouds. Brown and white spotted cows graze in a pasture, an old sailing ship with its sails furled lies in the water and cornflowers, dog roses and poppies add a few cheerful touches of color to the green landscape along the edge of the path.

As if they had wordlessly agreed, Jess and Laura pause in the middle of the bridge and let their gaze wander. The two friends travel to the island of Rügen in search of nature and peace away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Their goal: a hiking vacation on the Bodden Panorama Trail. It is quiet and peaceful here by the stream that carries the water from Lake Tetzitz into the Bodden. Only the rustling of the reeds in the wind and the calls of the flocks of starlings can be heard as they fly in formation across the sky. The friends stretch their faces into the sun and breathe in the clear air.

Two women walk across the Lebbin wooden bridge on the island of Rügen

The Bodden Panorama Trail

Quality hiking trail on Rügen

Here at the Lebbiner Brücke on the Liddow peninsula, the two students have already completed two kilometers of the Bodden Panorama Trail from the starting point in the municipality of Neuenkirchen. This means that the majority of the quality hiking trail awarded by the German Hiking Association still lies ahead of them. Over a total of 24 kilometers, it leads through meadows, forests, villages and fields along the Great Jasmund Bodden. The destination: the Baltic Sea beach in Mukran. The route can be hiked as a sporty day tour or in two day stages with an overnight stay in Ralswiek halfway through. But for Jess and Laura it is clear that they want to reach the Baltic Sea in just one day. So off they go! Let's get going.

The Bodden to the left and Lake Tetzitz to the right, the path climbs slightly shortly after Liddow and rises like a viewing platform above the water, which today throws up small, white whitecaps in the wind. Barley waves in the wind on the field at the edge of the path. Blades of grass tickle the legs of the two women, who are wearing short hiking shorts with their sports shoes on this warm early summer's day. Real hiking boots are not necessary, as the path is flat and well surfaced. When Jess and Laura reach the crest of the hill, they discover a bench framed by wild herbs and grasses, on which a fat caterpillar has already made itself comfortable in the sun. Well, you“, says Jess with a smile as she and Laura carefully sit down next to the animal islanders and reach for their water bottles. On the water of the lake, a swan glides over the waves. A sea eagle circles in the air. It smells of chamomile flowers, sun and summer.

Hiking vacation on Rügen

Where cat and rooster greet each other

After a few sips, the route continues along the reed-covered bank into the pine forest of the Banzelvitz mountains. From here, it's not long before the friends come across a cluster of thatched cottages. ”Moisselbritz” is written on the sign at the entrance to the village. The path that leads through the village is lined with fragrant country roses, herb gardens and fruit trees whose branches are already bearing small fruits. Swallows chirp, chickens scratch and somewhere a rooster joins in the symphony of sounds with its crow. A small gray cat scurries out from behind a brick wall, in front of which tomato plants sprout in the sun, and accompanies Jess and Laura part of the way, only to stretch out again in the sunny grass.

Shortly after the village, two thatchers dressed in dungarees stand in the sun and go about their daily work: cleaning and bundling dried thatch from Lake Tetzitz. The cheerful, cheerful sound of "Moin“ comes from under the beard of the man in front. His sun hat casts shadows over his face, which is nevertheless well-burnt from all the outdoor work. He cleans the cane bundle in his hands of the undergrowth and other stalks in practiced movements by pulling it through a large comb, then shaking the bundle open and tying it together on the binding stand with a sisal band. The bundles are collected in a large pile to be used on Rügen's roofs at some point, he explains to the women, who look on curiously and listen to him explain the traditional craft.

Two women picnicking on a meadow with a view of the Jasmund Bodden
A thatcher prepares the reeds for drying.

After a brief chat, we continue through a small forest to a hill directly on the Jasmund Bodden, which some locals affectionately refer to as the Rügener Carpathians. The view from up here over the water and the lush green fields is fabulous. The perfect place for a short breather before shouldering the rucksacks again.

The next stage destination is already within reach: the town of Ralswiek, which is best known for its beautiful castle complex and unique natural stage, where the St. Steubek Festival takes place in summer. A true spectacle that attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. But now, in the afternoon, the town is peaceful. Colorful sailing and fishing boats dangle in the harbor, sail ropes on the masts rattle in the wind, tiny waves slosh in the blue water and Jess and Laura let their legs dangle from one of the many jetties. The boat ”Elligie“ is just casting off with a gentle whirring of the outboard engine and heading out onto the Bodden.

Tip: A short detour to watch the sunset on the Lietzower Hochufer is worthwhile. The warm light lends a very special magic to the hilly forest and the Great Jasmund Bodden. An absolute insider tip for one of the most beautiful sunsets on the island of Rügen.

Two women walking in front of Ralswieck Castle
Built in 1896, Ralswiek Castle has served as a casino and retirement home over the years. Today there is a hotel behind the old walls.
Two women walk through the Lietzow beech forest. The sunset can be seen through the crowns of the trees.
Wonderfully green: narrow paths lead through the beech forest in front of Lietzow.
Two women walking on the natural beach at Mukran. View from the air with the Baltic Sea in the background.
The destination of the hike has been reached: the natural beach at Mukran stretches for several kilometers along the Baltic coast of Rügen.
Two women look through the display case at a cake buffet at the bakery

Reward for the hike on Rügen:

Poppy seed quark cake on the Baltic Sea beach

The last stage of the hiking trail now lies ahead of the friends. Along the harbor through the Black Mountains, past the hilltop tombs from Slavic times, which, together with the slowly lowering sun and the shadows of the forest, create a mystical atmosphere. The canopy of leaves only clears again in Lietzow. The two run the last few kilometers along the Little Jasmund Bodden to their destination: Mukran on the Baltic Sea. But before Jess and Laura cool their feet in the 18-degree water of the Baltic Sea, they stop off at the Peters confectionery and bakery. The Rügener family business is now in its second generation and is located directly on Mukran harbor. Poppy seed quark cake, Frankfurter Kranz, black forest cherry cake, punch slices and much more can be enjoyed here with a view of the Baltic Sea.

And then the time has finally come: the last few meters, the solid ground turns to sand under your feet and the sound of the sea gets louder and louder. Mermaids screech in the sky, a family collects stones and thunderbolts, which go into a small orange bucket, and an elderly gentleman in a hat stands on the shore, throwing stones over the waves. Jess and Laura have arrived at the natural beach on the Baltic Sea, take off their shoes and socks and close their eyes in delight as they take their first step into the refreshing water. In the distance, you can see the white chalk cliffs of Sassnitz glistening in the sun. Perhaps the destination for the next day.

Rügen Bodden Panorama Trail

Here you can find the GPX track and further information about the tour.

  • © TMV/outdoor-visions.com

    Quality hiking trail Bodden-Panoramaweg

    • Length: 24 km
    • Etappen: 1-2

    The award-winning "Wanderbares Deutschland" quality trail leads through a picturesque landscape along the Great Jasmund Bodden on the Island of Rügen. On 24 kilometers between Neuenkirchen and Mukran in the northeast of the island, hikers experience the varied Bodden landscape without major differences in altitude and, with a little luck, encounter sea eagles or otters, which are native to the area, between quiet meadow landscapes and near-natural forests.

    Read more: "Quality hiking trail Bodden-Panoramaweg"
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